Tango y Tigre

My schedule last week and this week have been quite busy ... there is never enough time in the day to do everything that I have planned. Time never stops; I don't feel like I can every really relax because there is always something I want to do or see on top of all of the obligated things to do. More and more classes are beginning to start up as the weeks go on. I am supposed to try classes I am interested in and then select 5 from there...its hard to tell if I will like a class when I go to classes that aren't held. Thanks to the wonderful organization and good communication of USAL, I went to four different classes this past week to find that the teacher decided to not show up or be an hour late and run class an hour late as well. Note ... its a half hour walk one direction to find out that there is no class.

On Sunday I went to Tigre Delta with a few friends from class, it's about a 4o minute train ride outside of the city for around 50 cents. It's known as the weekend getaway for all of the city folk...and it definitely proved to be that. There were loads and loads of people; the 'fruit port' (which is a market with much much more than fruit) felt like an amusement park with so many people constantly herding in one direction. Coincidentally, there is an amusement park located in Tigre Delta. Outside of the busy market, we took a boat tour of the delta. It was beautiful. Little summer and weekend houses are backed up right to the river front, each with their own dock. From my understanding, the river and the boats were the means of transportation for those people. Those that stayed week and year-round went to school by boat. It seemed like such a relaxed community that is surrounded by nature. We ate at an interesting place called 'waffles del mundo' that specialized in waffles and such...but it wasn't breakfast food. There were lunch sandwiches made with waffles, savory filled crepes, wafflons (which is like a corn dog hybridised with empanada fillings)...very creative food combinations. Because they only had meat wafflons available at the time, I had a 'burrito' and asked for no meat ...it was basically an ice cream cone with hard-boiled eggs, lettuce, carrot and tomato ... no spice. Later at a little stand I had a candied apple rolled in popcorn ... hardest thing to eat ever. I will not repeat that purchase. There was a lot in Tigre that I didn't do, like the Historic walk and the Touristic restaurant strip by the riverside. I liked the getaway so I am sure I will return several times.

The past few weeks, there has been a huge tango convention going on; there are events and classes throughout each day for free. The convention hall is always filled with people crowded around the dance floor watching or dancing tango; some are in fancy contest outfits while others just wander in from the streets. Last night I went to watch some music at the convention hall. First, a female tango vocalist 'Anita Co' played with her band. It was very classy and dramatic. The next band was an electronic tango band called 'Otros Aires' it was very sweet. I've really been digging the electronic tango music. It's modern...yet there's an accordion. I have a lot on my plate this week so I didn't stay for the second electronic tango band. I am trying to frequent the tango convention as much as I can because it is the last week. Take a listen at this electronic tango I speak of http://www.myspace.com/otrosaires and the vocalist http://www.myspace.com/anitacomusic

I ate at my first vegetarian restaurant in my life today...funny that it happened to be in Buenos Aires. It is not far from my school so I went during my break between classes to do some homework. I discovered dirt cheap 'pizzetas' at this bakery that are about 30 cents; they are like french bread pizza but without the cheese. Also I have been experimenting with some dried fruit, there's a store that has every fruit you've ever dreamed of dried and sometimes candied...today was pear. Other than that not too many food adventures. I have dinner with my old host family every Monday...it's still soo good. They are such sweet people. After talking with some people in my classes I learned how much I lucked out. Some host families are only in it for the business and the money of having a stranger at their house and don't talk or try to get to know their foreigner. I told my host mom about this and she told me to invite them over to her house for dinner next week. She is so genuine.

On Saturday people from the Residencia went to a Salsa club. There was a class and then dancing after. I like taking the Salsa classes ... I am learning how much I didn't know about salsa before. I want to try tango classes too... maybe throw in some yoga too (I got info from a yoga studio and they practice a different type of yoga here)

I believe I am successfully signed up for the half marathon on October 11. I got new running shoes, which was a huge ordeal as all shopping in this city. I will invest in some Dr. Scholls as well because I am overly cautious of injuring my arches again. I wore sandals today because it was almost hot out; I learned my lesson to always wear walking shoes...it's a walking city. My arches in my feet were stretching with each step and killed by midday.

A Buenos Aires blog has a whole post dedicated to walking around the city and its obstacles...I will provide my shortened version as well. Walking is rough here ... you constantly have to look ahead and down at the same time in order to dodge the following: dog poop, smeared dog poop, teeter totter sidewalk tiles, missing sidewalk tiles, attempts at filling the sidewalk tiles with concrete, holes, wood planks to protect the already trampled on wet cement, crazy drivers of the taxis, cars and buses, elderly that walk so, elderly that walk slow with umbrellas, kids with backpacks with wheels, strollers, couples randomly stopping for PDA, smokers blowing a good putt over their shoulders right into your face, window shoppers that stop suddenly in their tracks, unidentified building 'juice' dripping on the sidewalk, traffic funnels made from the newspaper stands, etc.

Love.

Siga La Vaca

After more than a week in my new home...it's pretty good. I live in a quirky barrio, this time its filled with mannequin stores, its quite a competitive area if you are trying to sell mannequins (if you want one let me know). There are kosher stores and restaurants scattered throughout and a local grocery store named 'Bambi' with the beloved deer as the mascot. My roommates are really great...Analia, from Ecuador, is bilingual so she helps me when I'm struggling to talk to Toña, from Colombia. I really lucked out with my roommates to be in an environment where I can get help with the language but also speak almost only Spanish.

Classes have basically started, by the end of this week, I will have tried them all and chosen which ones I want to take for the semester. My two foreigner classes 'Myths and Legends' and 'Literature of Argentina' are both small and seem interesting. This morning in my 'Internet and Advertising' class, I had quite a shocker ... we had to watch a video for homework that was made by a K-State professor (Professor Michael Wesch) so there were images and references to KSU...what a small world. So far the classes are not too bad.

There was a long weekend so I started to hit up some touristy spots in Buenos Aires: the Zoo, the Evita Museum and the Participatory Science Museum. At the zoo, there were plenty of animals I had never seen before in my life and the zoo regulars. Like I have said before, things are just more relaxed here, the fences are quite low for some of the cages: tigers, elephants, etc. There are deer rabbit, muskrats, roosters and other animals just wandering around the zoo with you. We bought some food to feed the animals, just stick your hand right up to the cage and hope the animal won't freak out too badly. The Evita Museum was interesting; a good Argentine history lesson. In the Participatory Science Museum, there were signs everywhere saying it was 'prohibited not to touch'; it was more for kids (they were everywhere) but it was still really fun because I still have a childlike vocabulary so it took me a while to read the instructions for each activity.

I had an adventure mishap...on my days off I like to pick a green spot on the map (a park or plaza) and just go to it. I've gotten good with the collectivos and subtes...so it's not as intimidating. And I have gone to all the close ones so it forces me to go farther away. I chose a green spot...took the new subway line that is still being built. The new H line only has about 5 stops. Each of the stops is quite clean and sparkling new. The train is like a ghost train; since there aren't many stops, no one is on the train ... that should have been the first sign. I show up at the park ... one of the ugliest things I have ever seen. It shouldn't even be marked green on the map. It was filled with construction and dirt piles and nothing of the color green...bum out.

The last herd of people from the Intensive language course left today. It will be an adjustment to not have some of my closer friends that I have met so far with me to continue on this adventure. I lost my protectors that would go out of their way walk me home every night and make sure I wasn't creepily hit on by random Argentines when we went out. I really appreciated and loved it all. Its the beautiful cycle of life though ... you live and share life with people for a certain amount of time and part ways to continue on your own track. Because of the big departure, last night we ate at 'Siga la Vaca' (follow the cow) which is a all you can eat parilla (grill) and salad bar and a bottle of wine, water and dessert are included in the price per person. I ... ate ... meat. I probably had at least a portion if not more between all of the sampling of the different cuts of chicken, pork, beef and other random animal parts. I tried some fried intestine and blood sausage ... nasty. The texture is still not my favorite of anything; you have to chew it for sooooo long. I doused every meat I ate with a delicious red and green pepper sauce and gobbled up tastes of everything from the salad bar. It was worth it ... a final supper. I still prefer the veg. But I can get over the thought enough to try and actually eat a fair amount of meat ... for the culture of course. Looks like someone in my barrio agrees.

Other food notes: I tried a tofu whole wheat empanada, a mushroom empanada (a rarity) and a peach and cheese miga sandwich (peaches are no longer off limits as sandwich makings). I keep ordering this thing called a 'tortilla' (its like a trick to make me think of real Mexican food) but it is supposed to be like a quiche with potatoes and whatever other topping...but both times it has been just like an omelet ... with no potatoes...I don't get it.

Love.

Change It Up

Unfortunately, you don't always get what you want...but I also believe that everything happens for a reason. After about 2 weeks of struggling and fighting against the University, I lost the battle and had to move to the Residencia. It's a bittersweet compromise because I still get to see Virginia and Guillermo for our Monday night dinners. I am trying to be positive minded to the Residencia ... it's just way different from staying with Virginia.

My roommate seems really sweet...it seems like we have a lot in common; except she has been gone a lot lately because her family has been visiting from Ecuador. My roommate and I made up a rule to only speak Spanish in our room; she knows English because she has moved around a lot and has lived in the US as well as several other South American countries.

There are a lot of Americans in the Residencia ... I don't want to speak English anymore and I am trying not to but don't want to be tempted. There are some ridiculous rules: I can't have visitors in my room at all or even in the lobby after dark...therefore unless I hang out in the Residencia with people from the Residencia, I need to go out to a public place ... which means spending more money. There is a cafeteria here but its pricey for what food you get. So I will be eating in my room (without fridge or microwave) or in restaurants for my meals. The lights in the halls and stairwells are all on timers ... so it's almost always dark. Even when you hit the switch, I think you get a minute of light. I only have a key to my room so I have to get buzzed into my own building each and every time. My window view is ...

I haven't been around the Residencia too much to get to know people because I have been trying to explore my new barrio more. It's strange how different looking it is compared to my old one. I used to live in Recoleta (it was so nice and clean looking; big stores, lots of restaurants, lots of people) now I live in Abasto (its next to the huge mall, the buildings and streets are more run down, hole in the wall restaurants and stores, not as many people). Abasto is known for being the Jewish neighborhood, so as I walk around, it doesn't seem like I am in a Latin American country by the way the people look and dress.

Besides moving this week, I just did some good exploring of the BA. Thursday I went with a few friends to Plaza de Mayo and saw the famous mothers of the Plaza de Mayo (a group of mothers who protest against the abductions from the Dirty War every Thursday). Right next in the plaza is the Buenos Aires Metropolitan Cathedral (it was beautiful and very extravagant). Interesting factoid; there is a mausoleum for General San Martin inside and only accessible through the church but it is not built on the 'church ground' because it's for an Army General and not a Saint or holy figure.

The next day we went to the Ecological Reserve (a huge park of trails that has dry grassy fields, then jungle-ish vegetation, then a lovely polluted and trashed beach) that's near Puerto Madero (the newest and swankiest barrio which was obviously developed with urban planning; it is home to all of the huge corporate office buildings). The reserve was nice to be surrounded by nature so much because it feels as if the city hustle and buildings never end. Then I learned the history behind the making of the Ecological Reserve last night; the Rio del Plata used to cover it all, but so many landfills, demolished buildings and trash were thrown in the river, the coast expanded enough to develop the 'ecological' reserve...how natural.

Today was 'Dia de los Niños', which is a commercialized holiday to promote families and children literacy...I ran to my favorite park today and there was a big party with clowns and people dressed up as giant hands...it was interesting.

Some fun social outings included: my first and second ice cream of Buenos Aires (gelato-ish if you go to the right place), a meal with my friend and his vegetarian host mom, a night of making homemade pizza with a group of Argentine friends and the family (probably one of my favorite times yet) and my first structured salsa dancing class (I knew nothing about the real steps)

Some food notes: Roquefort cheese pizza sprinkled with nuts is the pizza flavor of choice here ... its a strong flavor but good. Today while wandering I stumbled upon a Chipa (a cheese bread from Paraguay...I approve). I discovered 2 places that have whole wheat empanadas and one has so many vegetarian flavors I can't wait to try them all. I thought I'd ring in the new barrio with another chance at the pastries ... still not feeling them. And I found a restaurant/bakery that sells these cute and cheap little flavored bread balls (5 flavors all good ... I think that was the first meat type thing I bought myself ... one was flavored with bits of ham)

Wandering notes: I learned there are over 136 museums in Buenos Aires. I think I've got the subway system almost down ... its still hard to direct myself once I get above ground again; I get disoriented without the sun and all of the turning to go down the stairs of the subway. I started learning the bus system...my goal is to work on learning it a lot this week...I want to avoid taxis because they are more expensive and they are a good way to avoid the public transportation and not know exactly where you are going. While being here I have realized that I am very very independent ... almost too much. I am perfectly fine with walking and wandering during the day on my own time...I do what I want when I want. It's good and bad at the same time. I am seeing so much and learning it on my own.

There is so much graffiti in BA....a Gary Coleman centaur...


And I will leave you with ...


Love.

Cordoba

This past week I didn't have classes so the first few days I just enjoyed the city and the people in it. I met my international buddy, Maripau from USAL, its kinda like a club where they pair a Argentine with a foreigner. We went to a well known restaurant in BA called 'Los Inmortales'. I also went to breakfast with my friend Victor, I met him through my host dad. So far all of the locals I have been getting to know have been soo nice. I have also been hanging out with a family of one brother and 2 sisters (Roberto, Natalia and Carolina) they hang out all together and they are some of the nicest people I have met. The siblings and Victor are all learning and pretty decent at English so we trade off speaking languages or use a mix to help each other learn. It makes for some fun conversations and games of bilingual pictionary.

From Wednesday night to late Sunday night I took a trip to Cordoba, a really old city in Argentina and also the 2nd largest. It is surrounded by the sierras (hills) and little towns within the hills that all have unique characteristics. There were 4 of us girls all together; it was nice to have the smaller size of a traveling group.

The entire trip was very interesting... it started out at the bus station in BA. We missed our bus because it was not marked like we thought it would, we watched our correct bus leave positive it wasn't it. Most buses and any scheduled arrangements are quite late, so we didn't think anything of it for a while. I also witnessed my first public battery in real life. I was probably 10 feet from it after we gave the group of fighting people some space when we sensed the tension. A man attacked this woman and just started punching and kicking her on the ground and kicked her head several times until she was unconscious...no one did anything to stop it and the guy just got away. Finally about 10 minutes later some security came over to see what happened and look like there were doing something to help, then woman started having seizures. I was in complete shock and felt sick. Right about this time we figure out we missed our bus and went to talk with the ticket office to explain...luckily they switched our tickets without charging anything, we were all pretty shaken up from both things.

Once in Cordoba, the hostel was nice, very rasta and Bob Marley playing all night long. At the hostel we met this American guy that was so arrogant and made me sad he was representing Americans on this part of the world. We also met some really sweet people from England and Australia. I learned some fun terms like 'proper weirdo' (a creeper) and 'togs' (bathing suit). We took a tour of the sierras one day...beautiful countryside and cute little German influenced villages (Cumbrecita and Villa General Belgrano). We explored the city the next day seeing some of the museums and old churches. Cordoba felt so small compared to BA. The other half days were just spent wandering the city. I wished I could have visited a few other villages, but it takes a while to travel there and to find a way to travel there through the hills. I took bites of meat throughout the weekend. I am still not to the point where I would order anything, but certain types of meat sure go down easier than others; its all about the texture and taste. We attended an asado at the hostel and also went to a well known Argentine restaurant that tried to double the bill because we were foreigners. I wished I blended in a bit more and wasn't constantly approached 'where are you from?'. But then I am guilty just the same, on the bus ride home we accidentally sat one row of seats back from our assigned seats and screwed up the whole bus because they stopped to pick up more people every 30 min. A man sitting behind me just kept telling everyone to sit where they could because the foreigners messed it up. To top it all off, a transvestite boards the bus reeking of perfume and sits right in front of me and snores the whole way home.

Classes are supposed to start today...we will see how the school is at organizing. I might have some time to travel more if the classes are as unorganized as the rest of the school has been. The housing situation is still being worked on...its hard because everyone is on vacation this time of year; in the US and Argentina.

Love.